A Guide to Motoring through Yogya

I have recently started riding this motorbike through the city:
Because Indonesians don't seem to follow any discernible traffic laws, I have developed a few rules of thumb.

1) Don't ever get first in line at a traffic light. For starters,you won't beat the teenage boys off the blocks, so why try? Also, going first means you catch the tail end of cross-traffic, running a high risk that a pedicap (becak) will be in your way. No one wants a foreigner-pedicab crash to end up on the evening news. Finally, if you are first in line, the beggars always get to you. I never carry enough change for all the beggars at traffic lights.

2) When making a turn across a lane of traffic, find a car making a similar turn and stick with it. This eliminates the concern that oncoming buses/trucks/motorbikes/food carts will not notice the 6 foot, 180 lb white man on a moped trying to make a right-hand turn.

3) Don't follow buses. Their brake lights and signals don't work. You don't know what they are going to do, like stop for a pedicab right in front of you. And the exhaust is noxious.

4) Remember to carry change. You need to tip the guy who helps park your bike, and he can't break large bills. But he will appreciate that 10,000 rupiah note you just gave him.

5) Avoid rush hour, which is from 8 am-9 am and from 3 pm-6 pm. This has nothing to do with increased danger. In fact, everyone is going slower during those hours. This is because the exhaust during rush hour will kill you.

6) Don't drive in the rain. It is just plain uncomfortable. And then you are stuck in wet clothes.
This picture is from my drive to church, at about 7:30 am on a Sunday morning. Notice the emptiness of the streets. Perfect driving time.